Walking through the fabled street Calle Crisologo that is, with its cobbled pavement , old looking ancestral houses with their windows adorned in capiz,whitewashed by time, horse carriages down to the vintage antiques which are displayed on every corner; felt like being displaced in another space and time. You've probably read these lines a few hundred times from travel blogs of the same theme yet I can write over and over again about how this Unesco World Heritage Site and one of 7 wonder cities in the world can transport you immediately back in time.
So on a breezy, lazy Monday morning, we strolled along Caller Crisologo. Being a touristy place, we braced ourselves for a crowd pushing their way to capture that perfect selfie or groufie in the middle of the street. Could be out of sheer luck or a blessing in disguise, it was almost empty. And I silently jumped with glee! Standing in the middle of Calle Crisologo is like seeing a postcard come alive.
Before Calle Crisologo became Calle Crisologo, it had its share of name changes. From Calle de Escolta De Vigan during the colonial era it shifted to Washington Street during Uncle Sam’s time. The Japanese, while they were able to invade the city, left the name as it was
We meandered aimlessly, taking photos and glaring at every wall, window and door. Everything was moving in slow motion as if time stood still and for a brief moment, I had wished we can stretch time to marvel at this historic site.
I loved the street even more at night. The cobbled street glistens with the reflection of the light coming from the streetlamps. I literally exclaimed, "Golden Hour". It was almost midnight and while my aching stomach craves for Vigan Empanada; I savor every second I have wandering along the old, historic and serene street of Calle Crisologo.
The decision to come to Vigan was a product of our spontaneity and done in a whim.I didn't have a planned itinerary nor done any form of research. Sometimes, you just have let the place surprise you. To let yourself be enthralled at the history and let it captivate your tastebuds and satisfy your appetite for cultural immersion. Calle Crisologo is indeed a street often visited by many, frequented by masses and adored by photo enthusiasts; but in the heart of Ilokanos, the street will always remind us of resiliency, having to withstand calamities and preserving a bit of our past for the future generation to see.
Xo,
Jhesy
Something old with a twist of new
Gastronomic experience
Golden Hour
Dance of water and light
This pretty much sums up our Vigan Escapade.It is sort of a tradition I started a few years back to treat myself to a vacay or getaway on my birthday month. So last December, my good friend Phoebe has voluntarily made herself available to join me on this birthday escapade, coincidentally, it's her birth month too! As excited as I was, I was literally knocked down during the 8-hour bus ride. Must be the out of exhaustion.When you fly out from one country to another then hold a bazaar and stand for hours;you'll be hitting the sack sooner than you thought. We left at 12:00 am on December 13th and reached Vigan by 08:30 am the next day.I woke up with the streaks of sunlight touching my face. We reached Ilocos and my sight was treated to a fantastic view of the bridge which was a perfect backdrop to a beautiful morning.
Ciudad Fernandina was our home for 2 days. Vigan is known for old houses and most of the hotels are a mix of European and Asian architecture. If you don't mind splurging a bit for an overnight stay, then Hotel Luna is the best accommodation you can find in Calle Criosologo.
It was still early when we arrived at the hotel and check in starts at 1:00pm. There are a lot of tricycle drivers who are more than willing to be your tour guide and for a price of 250/pax, it was worth it. We stopped by Cafe Uno for a quick brunch. Vigan Longanisa paired with Sukang Iloko is just on point. Oh and the brick walls in this cafe sends off a rustic vibe perfect for that dark hot chocolate.
Our first stop was Pagburnayan, the iconic pottery place in Vigan City. There are two major burnayans in Vigan City, Ruby’s Pottery, and RG Jar Factory. They sit right across one another on Gomez Street. Manong was kind enough to show us the process of making a jar. I was amazed at the effort and artistry put into making a single jar. We even get to try it ourselves.
Tidbit : Entrance fee is free but donations are highly appreciated
We made a pit stop at Baluarte but decided not to go and wander inside as we're pressed for time. We told our tour guide that we will opt out from visiting the museums as well as we only have a day to explore the province.
Rowilda’s Loom Weaving resides outside the city. Here, you'll see locals in action as they weave a handful of strands into something beautiful. I find it rather astounding that in this modern day and age where everything is created by pressing a button or a switch; people here chose to create beautiful things by hand and with a manually operated equipment. They even let us try for a bit and it was incredibly fun.
Tidbit : Entrance fee is free but I'm pretty sure you'll end up buying pieces from their workshop as they are all too beautiful to pass
Bantayan Tower was our third stop. It is also known as The San Augustine Parish Church and Bell Tower. It’s one of the oldest surviving churches in Ilocos Sur and has served as a monumental watchtower for during the Spanish era. It was almost 6PM when we reached the tower and the guard advised not to stay long inside the tower as it will be pitch black inside. The window opens to a spectacular view of Vigan and a certainly the perfect spot to watch the sunset.
The night was spent wandering around the plaza and filling our bellies with Vigan delicacies from Cafe Leona. It's the ultimate provincial experience and we feast our eyes to the dancing fountain and lights. Plaza Salcedo is named after the founder of Vigan City, Juan de Salcedo. He named it Villa Fernandina de Vigan before it became Ciudad Fernandina, and finally, Vigan City.
We were surprised to learn that Vigan has a dancing fountain and an impressive one I must say. I have witnessed dancing fountains in Marina Bay Sands and Kuala Lumpur but Vigan Dancing Fountain show is something else. Laser and lights synched to popular Christmas and Frozen anthem luring more and more people to watch the show. And why wouldn't they be? It's so beautiful and for a good 30 minutes, it was indeed well worth seeing,putting Vigan in a whole new kind of light.
Tidbit : Be sure not to miss it, the show runs every night at 7:00 pm and 8:00 pm.
All of these in a span of a day and I felt that my Vigan experience was a bit short lived. I wanted to stay longer if I could and savor the simplicity and charm this historical city has to offer. So if you have time to spare, take your family to a joy ride or simply take the 8-hour bus ride and explore the beautiful Vigan in all its glory.
Xo,
Jhesy
